More Than Just Chicks: How To Raise Exotic Pheasants
Did you know that Meyer Hatchery sells more than just day-old baby chicks? We also have a good selection of juvenile exotic pheasant breeds to choose from. Like other types of animals, exotics pheasants have specific needs that need to be met in order to survive and thrive.
Good beginner pheasants (easier) are the Red Golden, Yellow Golden, other color variations of the Goldens, and the Lady Amherst. The other species are more challenging and considered an experience or advanced species. Please remember, this guide is a general overview of exotic pheasants. Do your research for any specific breeds that you are considering. Things to consider are climate, food, nesting, and aggressiveness. Also check with your local Fish and Game department for any permit that could be required to own pheasants in your area.
Chick: a baby pheasant
Juvenile: 6-12 months of age
Yearling: 1-2 years of age
Breeder: 2+ years of age
Rooster: a male pheasant
Hen: a female pheasant
Clipped Wings: Cutting of the flight feathers on 1 wing. Not permanent and will grow back after molt.
Pinioning: Permanent surgical removal of the last joint on the wing to prevent flying.
Aviary: a specially designed flight pen that allows your pheasants to live as natural as possible while still keeping them safe from predation.
Wild pheasant should always be kept in an aviary. Pheasants are very active birds and if not kept contained will walk, run or fly off. Meyer Hatchery does not offer pinioning, but we do offer wing clipping upon request. Wing clipping requests must be made prior to ship date via chat, email or by phone. Clipping of the wings is only to help acclimate your new pheasants to an aviary upon arrival. Here are a few things to keep in mind when setting up your flight pen or aviary:
- It is imperative to set up your pen in an area where chickens have not previously been raised. Chickens can carry diseases that lay dormant in the soil that can affect the health and well being of your pheasants.
- Be sure to allow at least 20 square feet of space per bird. Cannabalism can be a real issue if your pen is overcrowded.
- Provide good cover for your birds. Setting up your flight pen in an area with natural grass and weedy vegetation is ideal. If your area is bare, we recommend planting oats and/or millet.
- Pheasants do need a shaded area so a few natural bushes, roofing material, snow fencing or a tarp will do the trick in a portion of your pen.
- Your pen should be covered with a nylon netting and/or wire.
- We recommend covering the sides of your pen with a combination of netting with 1” galvanized wire woven through.
- Dig into the ground 10-20” and place your fencing this deep. That will help prevent predators from digging under and endangering your pheasants.
- Build a sand base on top of your soil in your aviary, 4” is a suggested depth. Sand is easy to clean and disinfect. Sand can also be raked to help keep the aviary clean and it drains well. Make sure to put a border in your aviary to keep the sand in place. You can use sand sterilized for a children’s sandbox, or alternatively you can use builder’s sand mixed with a small amount of agriculture lime to prevent bacteria and absorb odors.
- Water- Fresh clean water should be provided and available at all times
- For Juvenile Pheasants, feed a 19% protein game bird grower.
- Adult Pheasants: Breeding age pheasants require a 20% protein game bird feed, while non breeding pheasants only require a 12% game bird maintenance feed.
- In addition to these commercial feed recommendations, pheasants can eat grains, insects, worms, and leaves as they do naturally in the wild.
- Never feed live mealworms to your pheasants, the live mealworms can kill the pheasants by attacking their stomachs. You can offer the pheasants dehydrated mealworms.
When pheasants are fully feathered, they can withstand quite extreme cold temps.They will still be expending plenty of energy to stay comfortable, so constant access to their feed is necessary. Their aviary should provide a good cover from extreme snowfall and wind. During the summer months, pheasants will take advantage of the shaded parts of their aviary, and don’t be alarmed if you see them panting. Birds cannot sweat, so they pant to help stay cool.
Pheasants can be affected by three types of worms. The most common is Gape Worm followed by Caecal, and Hair Worm. Each type of worm affects different sites of the bird and cause very different issues. The best way to prevent a worm infestation is to regularly worm your pheasants every few months especially if you keep other types of poultry on your property. We recommend contacting your local University Extension Office for guidance on the best protocol for your area.
The typical breeding time for pheasants is April to June. A clutch can contain 7-15 eggs. The incubation period for pheasants is 23-25 days. A rooster will typically mate with several hens during the breeding season. Pheasant cocks can become violent or aggressive toward other birds in the aviary as the days start to lengthen but will usually calm down a bit once the hens start to lay their clutch. Pheasants are a territorial species, and you are going to only want one male per species in the aviary. You can mix and match species of wild pheasants, but you will want to mix species that have different nesting levels. A different primary food source should also be a consideration in mixing species. If you have multiple males of the same species, they can fight, and may even kill each other.
Most pheasants will create their nests on the ground. The nest is typically surrounded by and made from vegetation found in the area as well as feathers. The nest can be found in a depression in the ground, which may be natural, or the hen may actually scoop out herself. A pheasant’s nest can be 7 inches across and 3 inches deep. There are some pheasant breeds that will create their nest in a tree.
We hope this information about raising exotic pheasants has been helpful. Remember, if you have additional questions, our friendly and knowledgable staff is just a phone call, email or chicken chat click away!
Related Posts You Might Like
An important part of raising chickens is by checking over your chickens periodically to make sure that everything is healthy. By understanding the symptoms of things that go awry, you can be in a better position to help fix an issue before it gets worse.
we do our best to ensure their safety during transit, there are many factors that are out of our control. If your chicks arrive weak, chilled or lethargic here are a few tips to help ensure their survival:
Chicken flock illness is hard! Muddy Oak Henhouse shares on dealing with illness that required completely culling and cleansing.